Precariously hanging on the side of Hengshan, one of China’s five sacred mountains, a 1,500-year-old monastery seems to cling to the rock as effortlessly as a gecko on a wall. The Hengshan hanging temple is as natural on the rock face as that gecko. It just belongs.
A Chinese Wonder
Five years ago I discussed what the Eight Wonders of China could be with my Anhui University students. On the potentials list I included this wonder. That’s when I learned about it. Since then I have wanted to visit. I was giddy when we arrived. We got a glimpse of the temple hanging there as we pulled into the parking lot. I couldn’t wait and started walking to the entrance leaving the others at the car.
The structure isn’t that big, especially when presented on such an imposing mountainside. It appears to cling to the wall and be supported only by a set of stilts angled from the edge of the buildings back to the wall. However, that’s just what it appears. In reality, the structure is anchored to the wall by perpendicular beams that are inserted deep into the rock wall creating cantilevers. This allows the rooms to sit in a floating manner against the stone.
My Visit
As we were there in winter, there were no crowds though the infrastructure suggests they do get some occasionally. We climbed right up the stairs to the monastery. The first level is built on a masonry ledge climbing out from the base of the cliff like a giant’s step. From there, to enter the wooden perch, we climbed the steep stairs. They reminded me of boat stairs. The balconies are all very narrow making the adventure a bit difficult for those scared of heights.
The rooms were used by monks for both living quarters and religious study and meditation. There are a few chapels with effigies and immaculate wood carvings. One of these is of particular note because it blends three traditions with a niche for Buddha, one for Confucius, and another for Laozi. This is particularly interesting because the monastery was known as a Buddhist sanctuary and was built by Taoists.
Why was this structure built on a cliff?
Some say for safety from the potential floods of the river below. Others say to protect it from unfriendly people. Another hypothesis is motivated by principles. It states that the location of the monastery high above the ground helps with the monastic task for meditating. In Taoism, one wants to get rid of all worldly distractions, which would include incidental sounds like a rooster’s crow. By building it high on the cliff, sound does not travel up or down into the buildings causing distraction.
No matter the reason, it is amazing. I was thrilled and very happy to have experienced this. I’m also glad that Lonely Planet’s prediction that the temple itself would be restricted has not come to fruition yet. The experience would not have been the same to just see it on the wall. This was a top adventure for me in China.
